A modern homage to a proud, cosmopolitan city, where geniuses like Picasso and Miro learned how to break the rules. Robert Hughes takes us down the Ramblas through the "intestinal windings" of the ancient gothic quarter, past the bountiful Boqueria market to the Eixample.

"Robert Hughes is probably the best - and certainly the most accessible - art critic in the world . . . in Barcelona his art-historical and his sociological talents converge in what is often a dazzling collage of Catalan peculiarities" FREDERICK RAPHAEL, Sunday Times

A modern homage to a proud, cosmopolitan city where Gaudí, Picasso and Miró learned how to break all the rules.

Before Spain there was Catalunya, a thriving maritime empire with its own language and Barcelona as its capital, last bastion of resistance to Franco in the Spanish Civil War. Exploring 2000 of the city's history, Robert Hughes takes us down the Ramblas, through the "intestinal windings" of the ancient Gothic Quarter, past the bountiful Boqueria market to the Eixample, showcase of the daring, mannered architecture of Catalan modernisme, before resting at Gaudí's celebrated Sagrada Familia: crazy, unfinished symbol of this fiercely independent city of extremes.

"The pace is brisk, the narrative grasp cool, firm and confident . . . Hughes' prose has the 'capriciousness, symbolic precision and stylistic punch' he attributes to Catalan moustaches" HILARY SPURLING, Daily Telegraph

"Nobody has ever represented Catalonia's character more powerfully, or illustrated its claims to self-destiny more persuasively, than Robert Hughes in this monumental work" JAN MORRIS